Sunday 15 November 2015

The Kathmandu - Nagarkot Biking Challenge


A week before I departed for Kathmandu I already had Nagarkot in my plans. Online research told me that Kathmandu is 4,500 feet above sea level and Nagarkot is 7,200 feet, which means that a bike ride would have an elevation gain of 2,700 feet or 822 meters - something unheard of in pancake-flat Bangkok. 

The map will show the route, which is 32 km from Thamel in Kathmandu to Nagarkot.



Nagarkot is also considered as one of the most scenic spots in Bhaktapur and is the northeastern rim of the Kathmandu basin.

I also learned that there are many mountain bike shops in Thamel where I can get a biking day tour with a guide or just rent a bike and set out by myself. 

Thamel is a the backpacking tourist hub of Kathmandu akin to Khao Sarn road in Bangkok. It was here where I found this shop - Bike Hub, with Trek brand Bikes managed by Dipendra Baidya. This guy impressed me a lot with his business savvy and he offered for me to rent a bike for 10$, take it out in that moment and return it before 6 pm the following day, which exactly was my plan. 




the bike that he gave me had cable disc brakes, a front wheel as bald as my head, a busted front shocks lock, a chipped and worn-out saddle that looked like it had been through a thousands tours, and I got a super grimy roughed-out helmet (which I had to wash that night) - but it was good enough for me. The thrill that I was anticipating was not about the bike, but the exhilarating ride through the cool mountains.

I took the bike to my lodging at Lalitpur for the night and at 5:30 dawn I was out in the highway to Nagarkot. It was about 9 degrees Celsius and still pitch dark, but with my headlamp I managed to dodge the sea of humanity that was already at the intersection waiting for any bus that may have miraculously procured some gas.

Bhaktapur came next and the sun was just about to break over the ridge. What a way to see this culture wake up before my eyes... definitely a different kind of tour.


at the break of day I was well passed the city proper
and slowly inching my way up the first couple of hills.

a typical sight in the early hours - people bringing
fresh milk to the milk processing centers.

the hills had a thin layer of mist


a selfie attempt while trying to keep
the nose from flaring.

finally the Nagarkot bus park

where I hungrily consumed this small "breakfast special" 
at Berg house cafe and hotel 

my rented trek bike (gold) hangs securely with other
bikes of the Himalyan Biking Adventures, courtesy of 
the guy below who graciously put it up for me so 
that I can eat in peace.


with breakfast done I mount the bike and pray that
the wheels and brake cable can withstand hard braking
as I speed down the mountain. The air was still too
cold to comfortably shed my warm coat and pants.


some evidence of the recent quake


an occasional car


met these ladies with tons of firewood on their backs


Yeah, for the first time in my life I caught up 
with a bus and passed it. Tight corners are easier
done on a bike than an overcrowded bus.


some nice downhill speeding here


back on the highway at Bhaktapur in midday and it is almost
deserted due to the petrol crisis


a farmer bringing home some fresh onions


  through the bazaar at Lalitpur


main street Kathmandu


and back to Thamel to return the bike


the GPS tracing showing the tortuous road up the mountains...


and the other info that my ride managed to achieve.

With Nagarkot conquered, Angkor Wat may just be a breeze away.

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