Biking through Ayutthaya's historic landmarks

Tours in the Indo-China region are mostly done by air conditioned bus and sight-seeing is limited to ancient temples and palace ruins. What is left out in this set-up are the back-roads and insights into the community life of the locals.

A day-long bike tour in hot and humid Thailand may not seem inviting to the average tourist, but for the adventurous soul with the urge to get steeped in the local culture, a bike tour is the best way to live the dream.

I read about Grasshopper Adventures some years back, but being a runner I was more intent in chasing the many marathon events all over the region. One rather rugged run - The North Face 100 held at the mountains of Pak Chong, introduced me to plantar fasciitis - a painful malady that makes running long distances excruciating and almost impossible. I didn't want to hang my running shoes yet, but I definitely had to rest my feet to allow them to recover.

This was when I decided to get a bike to keep my muscles toned and weight trimmed. My interest in Grasshopper's organized bike tours was rekindled and the rest is history.

Here are some photos to liven up the rest of the story.

an initial email posted at the Grasshopper Adventures' website connected me to Tangkwa - a thai with good english. she led me through the booking and payment (ThB1,500) process and then gave instructions on how to meet my tour guide on the appointed day. That's the bike they had for me with the train that would take me and the group to Bang Pa-in for the first leg of our tour.

Vertex, a young thai employed at a car factory is with me in the group. This is his first provincial train ride and he is all eyes and ears.

the other members of this group are Sunita (USA); William (USA) and Noot and her 58-year old mom (Thai).

with the train approaching our destination we get up from our seats, all ready with gear and buoyed up spirits.

we were like a team of navy seals ready to jump off at a moment's notice.

Bill's 6 foot 4 inch and a half frame is crammed into the stairwell. He is the manager for Thailand operations of Grasshopper.

introducing to you mr. Tick (in green) - a bike-riding encyclopedia with Thai-accented English and a disposition that would put to ease any fear or anxiety at the start of a tour like this.

from the train station we hit the road with Bill leading this time.

the backstreets right through sleepy communities alongside canals and rivers were the first scenes into our tour.

Chao Phraya river crossing on a barge

a pickup truck, a few motorcycles and our bikes on board

off the ferry and we're back to the side streets

one stretch was on this lightly traveled highway through rice fields

entering a Muslim community where we had coffee break

one of those narrow bridges that would make you hold your breath at the approach while wondering if you could make it without having to dismount.

getting into the Wat Chaiwatthanaram compound

that's it... a 17th century Buddhist temple by the Chao Phraya river

contrasting modes of transportation: our bikes and the tour bus

the steepest and only climb in the tour - a bridge into Ayutthaya

a reclining Buddha

one of those spots where you can't resist being part of the photo at Wat Lokayasutharam

the tallest american in all of Ayutthaya for that day. his bike was the highest bike I have ever seen in my life. 

getting into ancient royal palace Ayutthaya

the grand and impressive spires of the palace

a Buddha statue losing the battle against nature - Wat Mahathat

another of those narrow bridges

a final crossing of one of chao phraya's tributaries

Tick is either very strong or the bikes are very light

even on the boat this guide keeps the info eloquently flowing. really an awesome guide.

that's the Ayutthaya train station...

where we checked in our bikes...

... and make a mad dash in the pelting rain to the train that was just grinding to a stop. In about an hour we would be back in Bangkok where a masseuse with soft and sturdy hands is waiting.

One of the reasons why I chose to go on this tour was to test how far my aging body (turning 60 in a year) could carry me in this activity. At the start I wasn't sure of myself. My daughter too was a bit concerned and she kept reminding me by phone messaging to hydrate and not to push too hard.

here's the map to show the green GPS tracing of our route - 39 kilometers all in all. the red line is a different trip.

Thanks Bill and Tick for giving me this chance to enjoy Ayutthaya on board two wheels. I loved every moment of the trip and I have my sights on more daring and far-reaching tours.